![]() Also along this vein make sure you cooling system is clean and you timing is set correctly. In extreme cases it helps to pop the hood and just let it sit there in the down position, you would be surprised how much heat that will let out of the engine compartment. Some cars will cool down if you just let them idle for a few minutes after you park, if yours does then that helps. The second depends on the nature of how your particular car cools. First and most convenient is to make sure the fuel pump is as good as it can be making maximum pressure. Peddller wrote:Two things I can think of that will help. So I am thinking the fuel pump, although is not stock, will make it drivable and starting is a big deal to me without overworking the starter or looking foolish at each stop.ĭoes anyone have experience in these matters, if so am I going in the right direction? I am not sure if I am right or not, I am not experienced enough to really know but it makes sense to me. So we can't expect Stock systems from the 50's are going to play nice with today's eco friendly fluids. I don't think anything is wrong with the engine or temperatures causing problems with vapor lock, I think it is the newer fuels aren't friendly to carbed engines with low pressure systems, and the fuel mixtures even with Stabil added just evaporate at much lower temperatures. I may also drop a lower temp thermostat depending on what's in there now, that might help lower under the hood temps as well. I am considering an electric fan under the hood to help push more air over the systems, in addition to an electric fuel pump on a toggle switch to push fuel up to the carb for starting. It does build up a lot of heat under the hood, but I can't see sitting outside the grocery store with the hood up every time I need to start the car. Even a small breeze through your cowl and over the engine can help cool it and reduce the chance of vapor lock.Thanks, I will check those. ![]() While this might not eliminate the risk of vapor lock, it can greatly reduce it.Īlso, if it's possible, point your airplane into the wind. Once you shut down, open the cowling or oil vents. The best way to avoid or minimize vapor lock is before it happens. But in some rare cases, vapor lock can occur in flight. Generally, if you experience vapor lock, it's when you try to start your plane after a quick turn (shut down and restart within ~30 minutes). Without air moving through the cowling, fuel in the lines can start to vaporize. As you shut down, the heat rises up toward the fuel lines. Vapor lock typically starts when you shut down an engine. When Is Vapor Lock Most Likely To Happen? Put simply, if the volatility of fuel is too low, it might not start, and if the volatility is too high, it can cause vapor lock. The irony of this situation is that higher volatility fuel makes starting in normal conditions easier. Volatility is the measure of how likely a substance is to evaporate at a specific temperature. Automotive gasoline has a range of 8 to 14 PSI). While 100LL is less volatile than the gasoline that you put in your car, it can still easily vaporize when subjected to high heat (Avgas has a Reid vapor pressure range of 5.5 to 7 PSI. The greater the volatility of fuel, the higher the probability of vapor lock happening. The fuel that you burn in your engine also can affect your chances of getting stuck with air inside your fuel lines. So if you're doing a quick turn or just shutting down to refuel, it's important to be aware that you might be at risk of vapor lock when trying to start back up.
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